Wednesday, March 31

Wednesday, March 31

The next morning we went for our early morning dive at Shark Point. Our guide, Ana, was awesome (a bit crazy) and spotted so many things. The visibility was amazing, crystal clear, and although there were no sharks, as the name implies, there were SO many turtles. The gently sloping reef was a turtle cafeteria, hotel, and playground. They were everywhere and HUGE. All of a sudden 24 ENORMOUS bumphead parrotfish stopped by (the biggest fish Pete has seen while diving). We saw tons of other sea creatures: juvenile batfish, trevalies, blueface angelfish, seven baby cuttlefish, titan triggerfish, black ribbon eel, green and black nudibranch, midnight snapper, and spotted sweetlips. Out of the 36 dives Pete has done, this was in his top 3!

In the afternoon, we dove at Sunset Reef, where they typically get Mantas this time of year, but none had been spotted so far. The visibility was good, not as great as the morning, and Ana had to help another diver equalize so we got to explore alone a bit. The highlights were the cuttlefish I followed for a bit, mostly because I missed the 7 babies before and the baby SHARK! Other fish we saw included: trumpetfish (I spotted this one and had no idea what it was at first), lionfish, triggerfish, pufferfish, featherstars, and boxfish.

For dinner we went to Pesona (Indian Hookah Lounge), smoked apple mint hookah and grubbed on some amazing Chicken Saag and Masala. I don’t understand how they make some of the best Indian food I’ve ever had on an island so small. We met up with some diving buddies at the Irish bar (Tir Na Nog) for a few drinks…they were throwing a party for 2 girls who completed their dive master courses.

SHARK

Giant Bumphead Parrotfish
Giant Bumphead Parrotfish
Giant Bumphead Parrotfish
Cuttlefish

Ocean Floor

Dinner

Tuesday, March 30 Gili Trawangan

Tuesday, March 30

Pete and I decided to take the fast boat to the Gili’s as opposed to the very very slow boat (1.5 hrs vs. 9 hrs). The Gili Cat car picked us up in the morning and took us to Padang Bai, the main harbor on the west coast of Bali. Before the boat left Pete grabbed some lunch, which to date, has been the best satay. The boat ride to Gili Trawangan (Gili T) was about 1.5 hrs sailing northeast from Bali. After the short ride we got to Gili Trawangan, one of the three small islands off of Lombok – the other two being Gili Air and Gili Meno. These three islands are all extremely small with no cars (bikes or horse drawn carriages are the only means of transport), unreliable electricity, no fresh water but spectacular white sand beaches. Gili T is the most populated of the three, with the most amount of homestays/bungalows and the only five star hotel (which we did not stay at). We found ourselves a nice little homestay for $15/night (Trawangan Cottages) which were very clean and close to the main strip. This did not include AC but with a simple flick of the fuse box we had ourselves an arctic climate room.

Once we were settled in the room, we scoped out a few dive shops (there are about 10 on the small island) and went with Blue Marlin Dive shop. All dive prices are fixed on the island ($38/dive) so since Steph is bonkers for diving (aka she thinks she is a mermaid) we immediately signed up for the morning and afternoon dives the next day. By now it was around sunset and we decided to walk around the entire island which only took 1.5 hrs. For dinner we ate bbq at the Beach House, which because of Steph’s affinity for underwater exploration and life forms, was her last seafood meal for life. After dinner we had a drink and checked out the beach huts where you can watch movies. Pete loved these because they are super relaxing, free (you just have to buy a drink or popcorn), and have a huge movie selection (Pete wants one in his house). We watched 7 pounds…really good for those who haven’t seen it (Steph cried).

Streets of Gili T

The pier at Gili TSteph enjoying her time in Gili T

Sunset during the walk around the island

Huts to watch movies on the beach

Thursday, March 25 (Wreck Dive)

Thursday, March 25

This morning was our final bright and early day. We had a two hour drive to Tulamben (on the Northeast coast) to the USAT Liberty Wreck. This WWII US Army Transport ship was torpedoed by the Japanese in 1942 on the beach, but when Mt. Agung erupted in the 60’s, the lava flow pushed the boat into the water. It’s submerged from about 3m to 18m and it accessible via the beach. The drive up there was really pretty the closer we got. The first dive was great, and the visibility was amazing. The water was crystal clear and the wreck is home to huge schools of jackfish, little eels, green fan coral, surgeon fish, trigger fish, parrot fish, trunk fish, black tang fish, flounder, snapper, as well as hundreds of other species. Because the boat has been underwater since the 60’s, coral has prominently grown on the ship and numerous fish hang around there. On the second dive (which was at the same location), we got to explore a bit more of the boat and Steph was getting the hang of being underwater (and loving it). We also had the chance of swimming through/under parts of the ship.

Once we returned to Sanur a bunch of us from the dive trip went out to a local hang out to have some drinks, dinner and played a billiards tournament –- which Steph won. What’s interesting and very convenient is that you can bring drinks from any bar to another bar as well as order food from any restaurant to the bar. Across the way was this highly recommended Korean restaurant. So, because of their Balinese ways, we ordered mandu (dumplings) from there which were delivered to us across the street at the bar once ready. They really will do anything for business.

Steph and Pete under the sea

Jack fish

Steph finishing her open water skills

USAT Liberty wreck

Wednesday, March 24

Wednesday, March 24

Today was Steph’s first open water swim. Her and Trevor basically did two shorts dives in Sanur to go over skills because there isn’t too much to see. While Steph was out doing her thing Pete went to the beach in Sanur until the early afternoon when he met back up with Steph in the late afternoon.

We went out to a quick dinner nearby for an early night.

Tuesday, March 23 (Scuba Diving begins)

Tuesday, March 23

Steph began her scuba lesson in the pool today. Nothing too exciting, lots of basic scuba skills to go over, but mostly just assembling and then taking apart gear. Her instructor, Trevor, is awesome and took us out at the end of the day.

While Steph was taking her class, I went on my first dive in Bali to Padang Bai. It had been a couple years (July ’08) since I last dove so it felt good to get out there. Since its quiet season here, it was just me and the dive master (Bowo) on this trip. The drive to Padang Bai was approximately one hour through palm tree forests and the tiered rice paddies. Once we got to the beach we put our gear into a small, narrow outrigger boat that was just big enough for the driver and the two divers and our gear (the boat was so narrow we had to sit one in front of the other). After a five minute boat ride to the blue lagoon we jumped in the water and got our gear on. The dive was pretty good, only because of the poor visibility. Most notably I saw juvenile blue ribbon eel, cuttle fish, lion fish, goat fish, tang fish, surgeon fish, sea cat fish, and cow fish. There was also a very strong current and an abrupt thermocline, where you could be swimming in the warm portion stick your arm down below you and feel the cold water – you could even see the difference between the warm and cold layers.

On the second dive I saw a crocodile fish (first time ever), trumpet fish, trigger fish, puffer fish, nudi branches, spotted trunk fish, yellow sweet lips fish and parrot fish. Again their was a strong surge and abrupt thermocline.

After the drive back to the dive center, Steph had just finished her day and we went out for a few drinks with her instructor Trevor.

Monday, March 22

Monday, March 22

Today we decided to head back to the Art Center (Taman Budaya) where I used to study dance and gamelon. It was nice to head back to my old neighborhood and show Pete where I spent all my days in the summer. I think he was pretty impressed. The Art Center is a beautiful complex, with gardens and traditional Balinese houses that are dedicated to the arts. In the center there is a huge outdoor stage/theater. There is some kind of performance this weekend and I think we may go check it out. Afterwards we walked to the pasar (market) nearby. They sell pretty much anything from backpacks to fried pig. We bought some fruits for the next few days…we’ve been eating so many noodles! We need to be in bed early tonight to be ready for scuba at 7 tomorrow morning!

Art Center Grounds

Pete attempting a Balinese dance move

Center outdoor stage/theater

Stone carvings at each entrance

Sunday, March 21

Sunday, March 21

On Sunday we woke to a HUGE breakfast of rice, chicken skewers, tempe, fish wrapped In palm leaves, fried potatoes, fried tofu, and a spicy tuna curry. After stuffing ourselves we again walked over to the beach for an afternoon of relaxing and for Steph to finish reading her scuba manual. The beach was pretty empty when we got there around 1pm, however, around 4ish the place was packed with Indonesian kids and their parents. Apparently the beach in Sanur is the place to come for after school activities. As the tide rolls out hundreds of kids fill the water and numerous food vendors line the beach.

After dinner on the beach we stopped at a bar to watch the Liverpool vs. Manchester United soccer game. Although a sparse crowd, most were rooting for Man U. When walking home we always pass a taxi stand, where, especially at night, a bunch of the drivers are hanging around playing a local game called Carambo. They explained the game as if it’s similar to billiards, except there are no cues and you flick the pieces with your finger. Each person gets one flick and if they don’t make the piece into the hole the next person goes. This continues until someone makes it and whoever does wins 1,000 rupiah (1 US cent) from each player. We haven’t played for money yet, but after some more practice we may have to – especially because the locals want to win our money.

The past couple days we have also been working out logistics for Thailand (we are going sometime the first week of April). If anyone has any recommendations for things to see, places to go, etc. please let us know!!

Beach food vendor

Beach crowd (mostly Indo kids)

Huts on the ocean